I won’t be in Italy for the holidays this year which is a little unusual. Since Giada was little, I’ve preferred to stay in Florence. I’m not a big fan of traveling when everyone else does, and I love spending time in a cozy, decorated house cooking and baking to Christmas music. It’s also such a special time of year in Italy, and I adore strolling around, soaking up the holiday magic.
There are a few standout Italian holiday delicacies and traditions for me and I’ve shared some of my favorites here with you.
Il Pranzo di Natale
I like to mix up my holiday traditions. For example, baking Christmas cookies with my daughter and making Christmas Eve and Christmas Day meals that nod to all my favorite American and Italian things. One pandemic Christmas, I cooked a highly ambitious traditional Italian meal. It included tortellini (they were homemade but not by me) served in the customary capon broth I made from scratch, and bollito misto (mixed boiled meats) served with mostarda and insalata russa, two things that bring me joy all year round. Mostarda is not mustard. It’s a side dish made of candied fruits like pears, cherries, apples, and figs, swimming in a deliciously spicy syrup infused with mustard powder or oil. It’s served as an accompaniment to the bollito and is also super yummy with cheeses. Trust me you need it in your life.
One of the most memorable things about that particular Christmas meal was the meatballs I made the next day from the bollito leftovers. My daughter still raves about them, and I keep promising her I’ll make them again. I love to cook and get creative in the kitchen, and use Italian holiday staples like dates, pistachios, citrus fruits, and pomegranates in our everyday meals as well.
Pandoro or Panettone?
I used to swear by pandoro from the Veneto region, because I’m not a big fan of canditi, the candied, dried fruit that the historical Milanese panettone calls for. I don’t know when it happened, but at a certain point, the panettone upped its game, and now you can find not only the classic panettone but also ones that will make everyone happy. There are commercial and artisanal ones that have all sorts of sinful, yummy ingredients like chocolate, figs, black cherries, hazelnuts, and pistachio cream. There really is something for everyone, including gluten-free options. I’m amazed every year by the variety and novelty. I do still indulge in pandoro too.
This year, my suitcase is full of gifts, including an artisanal, tried and tested panettone as well as one of my absolute favorite holiday sweets, a panbriacone, literally a drunken cake. The one I’m bringing is from the Pasticceria Bonci in Montevarchi near Arezzo, and it’s delightfully boozy, drenched in vin santo, but there are also versions with rum, limoncello, and other liqueurs.
I like to combine my traditions by making panettone and pandoro French toast, something I highly recommend for a festive breakfast. The panbriacone might be a little too much in the morning, but it’s the perfect dessert and late afternoon snack. Be warned, it packs a punch!
Lights, Concerts, Markets, and Midnight Mass
Wandering around the city when it’s all dressed up for the holidays is a delight. Major Italian cities and small towns go all out, and it’s enchanting to explore, experience the magic, and be surprised each year as the decorations and markets seem to get better and better, lifting our collective mood. The trees on Florence’s viali, the wide boulevards that encircle the city center, are filled with lights, which makes sitting in traffic more bearable, and there is a spectacular show, Florence Lights Up, that runs from December 6 to January 6, which features breathtaking artistic light installations throughout the city. For those visiting, you can find a map here.
While strolling around, I love to pop into a church to check out the presepi, the nativity scenes you’ll find in more simple and elaborate versions in small churches as well as in the larger basilicas. The picture below is of the magnificent one in Florence’s Piazza del Duomo.
There’s music everywhere, lots of Christmas concerts, and also pop, rock, gospel, classical, and jazz performances on New Year’s Eve. I’m a sucker for Christmas carols, so I try my best to make it to at least one of the many concerts every year. I also love to attend midnight mass on Christmas Eve, something I suggest to all, regardless of your faith and beliefs. It’s peaceful, spiritual, and grounding, and makes you feel like you’re a part of a community, whether you’re in a small, neighborhood church or a monumental one.
La Befana
Here in Italy the holidays last until January 6, the Epiphany, when children receive sweets or coal (it’s candy coal) from La Befana, a kind and beloved Christmas witch. As an American, I hang up the stockings when the tree goes up over Thanksgiving weekend. Per Italian tradition, that should happen on December 8, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, and stockings should appear in preparation for La Befana’s arrival. I stuff the stockings for Christmas Day and also happily celebrate the Epiphany tradition of gifting children a stocking full of sweet treats. Now that my daughter’s older, the stocking looks a little different, but I still throw in some candy. You can either stuff your own stocking or choose from the many you will find at supermarkets and shops. You can also expect wonderful festivities out on the streets on January 6, from flying befane to three kings parades featuring lots of fanfare and pageantry.
Red Underwear for Luck
This is a real favorite. While for many years I resisted it, it’s a tradition I now embrace. Italians wear red underwear, preferably new — in fact, it’s a very popular Christmas gift — on New Year’s Eve. In Roman times, red was a symbol of vitality, and it was thought to ward off bad spirits in the Middle Ages. Today, red intimate apparel is donned to attract good luck, love, and prosperity in the new year. I mean, why would you not incorporate this tradition into your holidays? We need all the good fortune we can get and I’m not taking any chances!
Wishing you and yours Buone Feste, wherever and however you celebrate.